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Pakistan's Hyderabad experience: heavy security, thoughtful hospitality

Babar Azam is all smiles at Pakistan's training ahead of their World Cup opener Getty Images

As the Pakistan team bus zooms into the Rajiv Gandhi Stadium in Hyderabad, their motorcade of armed police jeeps containing a few hundred security personnel quickly swing into action. They spread themselves across the outdoor nets area within a blink of an eye, just before the team comes out to train.

Behind the police jeeps, there's a van full of trained commandos that makes a swift entry. As they disembark, their chief issues orders detailing the areas they will survey and the activities they have to carry out. A local liaison officer is then briefed by the security chief, and plans are relayed across walkie-talkies to various department heads around the venue.

It's not hard to understand why security is so elaborate. There's body frisking at every entry point; those with a valid pass only have it slightly better than many others, and fans making a beeline outside the gates to catch a glimpse of the players, or those trying to get hold of tickets, are kept out.

Even before the Pakistan team emerges from the dressing room, three armed guards station themselves besides the perimeter of the nets area, while six others are at the entrance of the main pavilion block as Babar Azam strides out with his team after a slip catching drill inside the main ground.

These guards with dark glasses have their backs to the action. They're so seasoned that they don't flinch or move a muscle, even when someone with the ferocious ball-striking capabilities of Iftikhar Ahmed, or Ifti chachu as the team calls him affectionately, goes about his business. As he has a hit, repeatedly swinging big to the chorus of 'played, yaar' from team director Mickey Arthur, the sound of ball on bat echoes around the concrete stadium.

As Pakistan go about training, the intense security seems overwhelming to the bystander watching from afar. But if you're wondering whether Pakistan feel the same way, remember that they play under heavy security when hosting international teams at home. They've taken the protection in their stride at the World Cup, with smiles on faces amid the warm hospitality they've received in Hyderabad.

At the ground, organisers have gone out of their way to procure many more kilos of ice than originally requested for, and the chef has tailored local delicacies to the taste of the players. This is mehmaan nawaazi, Hyderabadi style, where food is an integral part of the conversation. Generous cups of Irani chai and diet Karachi biscuits - a local delicacy - are served, apart from dishes curated by the team trainer to ensure players aren't loading themselves up prior to a training session or match.

Back at the hotel, the Pakistani players have an entire floor to themselves, cut-off from the general public, and a dedicated set of staff to cater to the team's needs. There's a separate dining area, a cordoned off swimming pool that's kept open beyond usual hours to accommodate late recovery requests, and round-the-clock security that makes arrangements for the team if they want to head out.

Four nights ago, the entire team visited Jewel of Nizam, near the famous Golconda Fort, for dinner. A section of the route was turned into a green channel to facilitate smooth movement. On their plate were different varieties of kebabs, biryani and lots of spicy local food. Hyderabadi Haleem and Gosht Salan were favourites. It was Pakistan's first and only outing since arriving in India.

Only a week ago, there was so much uncertainty around Pakistan's journey to India. Visa delays had prompted the team to cancel a training trip to Dubai. Now, those teething troubles have been long forgotten and the team appeared at ease with their environment. The only hint of regret, from Babar at the captain's event in Ahmedabad on the eve of the tournament opener, was the absence of Pakistani fans.

Babar has been asked several times about the welcome his team received in India. How the airport came to life as news spread that Pakistan had arrived. Babar has said he's been surprised, not just on arrival but also at their warm-up games.

"To be honest, we also heard that," he said, when asked if the team thought they'd receive a hostile reception. "But since the time we arrived in Hyderabad, the kind of hospitality we've received and the kind of welcome we had from the airport to the hotel ... even in the last match at the ground we felt very good."

On Friday, Babar will be able to hear shouts of 'Pakistan jeetega' and 'Dil Dil Pakistan' from an elderly gentleman, 66-year-old Mohammad Bashir, who is a bit of an anomaly in Hyderabad. He's perhaps a lone ranger, the only Pakistani fan in the city.

Bashir is from Karachi, but he's been able to make it in time for their first game against Netherlands only because he's a now a US citizen. He's been traveling to World Cups since 2011 and has quite a rapport with several Indian players, including MS Dhoni and Rohit Sharma. Bashir has several photos with them and their families, and says Dhoni and Rohit regularly give him tickets for ICC events. Bashir says while he isn't as familiar with the current Pakistan players, he's excited to watch Babar and Mohammad Rizwan "do something special" at the World Cup.

In June, much against his doctor's wishes, he decided to travel to India to watch the tournament. All he knew then was that he would be based in Hyderabad, the hometown of his wife, Rafia. To many, Bashir has already become a familiar face around the ground. He cheers for the players, waves the Pakistan flag passionately, and belts out chants that resonate loudly around the ground.

He's mighty impressed with the 'awwan mohabbat' Hyderabad has given him. It's likely the Pakistan team will share the sentiment when they reflect on this World Cup campaign many years later.