<
>

What you need to know about Sport Climbing ahead of Tokyo 2020

One of the newest sports to makes its Olympics debut, sports climbing is perhaps the most unknown and unusual of the five sports to be included.

Named alongside skateboarding and surfing in 2016 to make its Tokyo 2020 Olympics debut, in a move that's considered the most comprehensive evolution of the Olympic program in modern history, it's the first step the Games has taken to grow interest amongst youths.

But what is sports climbing?

Sport climbing is a combination of three climbing disciplines: speed, bouldering and lead climbing, with the lowest scorer after all three events awarded the gold medal. According to Australian Olympic sports climber Tom O'Halloran you should think of it as a "strange version of a triathlon. Each of the events tests different aspects of your physical capabilities".

The event starts with 20 men and 20 women each competing for medals. By the end of the qualification round there will be just six men and six women competing in the finals, there are no semifinals. Standings will be determined by a multiplied score of athletes' placements in all three disciplines, the lowest score earns the gold medal.

Speed climbing is simple enough to understand. Climbers must race their way up a 15 metre wall, the first to the top wins. For this competition, climbers will compete in one-on-one heats under a bracket tournament structure. A false start will result in a competitor's immediate disqualification.

A short, sharp event, the race can be over in as little as six seconds, so make sure not to look away!

From here it gets a little more complex.

Bouldering is all about strength and problem solving. Each athlete will be given four minutes to reach the top of each boulder, about four metres high, in a set of four. The aim for the climbers is to reach the finishing hold and demonstrate control with both hands. Scoring will be determined by the amounts of attempts a climber takes to reach the top.

In lead climbing, athletes will attempt to climb as high as possible on a wall over 15 metres high with a six metre overhang in a fixed time. To make the event even more difficult, the climbers will be awarded points for each controlled hold on the wall. The competitor who reaches the highest spot on the wall will get the most points and thus win the discipline. Competitors will be given just one attempt, if they fall their attempt will be completed.

To determine the winner of the event, each competitors overall rank will be determined by multiplying their placements for each event, with lower scores ranking higher. This means if an athlete finishes first in speed, fourth in bouldering and third in lead their end score will be 12 (1x4x3), they will then be ranked with their fellow competitors.